ABC OF SOUP MAKING.

Lean, luscious beef, mutton, plus veal, kind the basis of everyone fine soups; subsequently it is advisable to procure those pieces which afford the richest succulence, and such in the same way as are fresh-killed. Stale meat renders them bad, and fat is not so well adapted for producing them. The principal art in composing fine rich soup, is thus to proportion the separate ingredients that the flavour of one shall not predominate over another, and that each one the articles of which it is composed, shall form an agreeable whole. To accomplish this, care must be taken that the roots and herbs are perfectly well cleaned, and that the water is proportioned to the quantity of meat and other ingredients. Generally a quart of water may be allowed to a pound of meat for soups, and half the quantity for gravies. In baking soups or gravies, gentle stewing or simmering is incomparably the finest. It may be remarked, however, that a really fine soup can never be made although in a well-closed vessel, but, perhaps, greater wholesomeness is obtained by way of an occasional exposure to the air. Soups will, in common, have from three to six hours doing, and are much better prepared the day before they are wanted. When the soup is cold, the fat may be much more easily and completely removed; and when it is poured off, care must be taken not to disturb the settlings at the bottom of the vessel, which are therefore good that they will escape through a sieve. A tamis is the finest strainer, and if the soup is strained while it is hot, let the tamis or cloth be previously soaked in cold water. Clear soups must be perfectly transparent, and thickened soups on the subject of the consistence of cream. To thicken and give body to soups and gravies, potato-mucilage, arrow-root, bread-raspings, isinglass, flour and butter, barley, rice, or oatmeal, in a little water rubbed well together, are used. A article of boiled beef pounded to a pulp, by a bit of butter and flour, and rubbed through a sieve, and gradually incorporated by means of the soup, will be found an excellent addition. When the soup appears to be too thin or too weak , the cover of the boiler should be taken off, and the contents allowed to boil till some of the watery parts have evaporated; or some of the thickening materials, above mentioned, should be added. When soups and gravies are kept from day to day in hot weather, they should be warmed up each day, and put into fresh scalded pans or tureens, and placed in a cool cellar. In temperate weather, each other day may be sufficient.

Different herbs and vegetables are required for the purpose of cooking soups and gravies. Of these the principal are, Scotch barley, pearl barley, wheat flour, oatmeal, bread-raspings, pease, beans, rice, vermicelli, macaroni, isinglass, potato-mucilage, mushroom or mushroom ketchup, champignons, parsnips, carrots, beetroot, turnips, garlic, shalots and onions. Sliced onions, fried with butter and flour till they are browned, and then rubbed through a sieve, are excellent to heighten the colour and flavour of brown soups and sauces, and form the basis of many of the nice relishes furnished by means of the cook. The older and drier the onion, the stronger will be its flavour. Leeks, cucumber, or burnet vinegar; celery or celery-seed pounded. The latter, though equally strong, does not impart the delicate sweetness of the fresh vegetable; and when used as a substitute, its flavour should be corrected by way of the addition of a bit of sugar. Cress-seed, parsley, admired thyme, lemon thyme, orange thyme, knotted marjoram, sage, mint, winter savoury, and basil. The same as fresh green basil is seldom to be procured, and its fine flavour is soon lost, the greatest way of preserving the extract is by means of pouring wine in relation to the fresh leaves.

For the seasoning of soups, bay-leaves, tomato, tarragon, chervil, burnet, allspice, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, clove, mace, black and white pepper, essence of anchovy, lemon-peel, and juice, and Seville orange-juice, are all taken. The latter imparts a finer flavour than the lemon, and the acid is much milder. These materials, among wine, mushroom ketchup, Harvey's sauce, tomato sauce, combined in different proportions, are, in the midst of other ingredients, manipulated into an almost endless brand of excellent soups and gravies. Soups, which are intended to constitute the principal part of a supper}, certainly ought not to be flavoured as sauces, which are only designed to give a relish to some particular dish.

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