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Clematis - The main purpose in pruning is to help plants produce the maximum number of flowers and at the height, which they can be enjoyed, so annual pruning is recommended. Sometimes older, neglected plants can be cut back into older wood and new buds may break, though growth from old wood will likely be weak and slow. Not all clematis can be pruned in the same way. There are three methods that can be applied to major groups depending on the time of year the plant flowers. Some clematis flower on the previous years wood, those are the earliest flowering varieties, but the later flowering types must make new growth in order for flower buds to form. A few plants are not strictly bound to the following groups but may cross lines. Training shoots horizontally not only keeps the flowers within eye level, but also provides better coverage of the support, and the reduced flow of sap encourages more flowers.
GROUP A: Early-flowering Clematis. Plants in this group bloom in early spring, generally in April and May, from buds produced the previous season. Prune these back as soon as possible after bloom but no later than the end of July. This allows time for new growth to produce flower buds for the next season. Remove shoots that have bloomed. You can prune out more stems to reduce the size of your plant if it has become untidy, or to form a good framework of branches. Do not cut into woody trunks.
GROUP B: Large-flowered Hybrids. Large-flowered hybrids bloom in mid-June on short stems from the previous season's growth and often again in late summer on new growth (these blooms are smaller). Prune in February or March by removing dead and weak stems, then cut back remaining stems to the topmost pair of large, plump green buds.
This cut could be a few inches to a foot or two from the stem tips. You may be able to force a flush of new growth from the base by cutting the stem back to 18 in. (45cm) immediately after the flush of bloom in June.
GROUP C: Late-flowering Clematis. Plants in this group flower on the last 2 -3 ft. (60cm-90cm) of the current season's growth. Some types begin blooming in mid-June and continue into the autumn. This is the easiest group to prune since no old wood needs to be maintained. In February or March cut each stem to a height of about two to three feet. This will include removal of some good stems and buds. Eventually the length of the bare stem at the base will increase as the vine matures.
Evergreen vines may need some pruning if the cold winter weather has caused any damage. Wait until new growth starts, so you will know how far to cut-them-back.
Colutea arborescens (bladder senna): - Completely cut out weak, twiggy and thin shoots in early spring. Cut back strong shoots to within a few buds of the old wood. Cornus (dogwood): - The tree forms need no regular pruning, but C. alba and C. Stolonifera, which are grown for their attractive young stems, should be cut back to within 2 inch (5cm) of the ground in spring.
Corylus maxima 'Purpurea' (purple-leaved filbert) and C. avellana 'Aurea': - In late winter or early spring, cut back vigorous shoots to encourage the development of fresh shoots and attractive leaves.
Daboecia cantabrica (St Daboecia's heath): - Use garden shears to clip off dead flowers in late autumn, after the flowers have faded. In cold areas leave pruning this ericaceous plant until spring.
Deutzia Cut out all flowered shoots to their bases as soon as the flowers have faded, in mid-summer.
Dipelta floribunda: - After the flowers have faded in early or mid-summer, cut a few of the old stems to ground level to encourage the development of further shoots.
Elsholtzia stauntonii (mint shrub): - In late winter, cut back fairly hard all shoots that flowered during the previous year. At the same time, cut out weak and twiggy growths.
Erica (heath/heather): - Use garden sears in spring to trim off dead flowers from summer-flowering types. Clip winter and spring-flowering types as soon as their flowers fade.
Fabiana imbricata: - To encourage a bushy shape; shorten long shoots as soon as the flowers have faded.
Forsythia (golden bells): - Prune yearly after the flowers have faded in spring. Cut out straggly and misplaced shoots, and shorten long and vigorous stems. If pruning is neglected, the shrub becomes choked with old wood, reducing the number of flowering shoots.
Fuchsia magellanica (hardy fuchsia): - Cut back all shoots to ground level in spring to encourage fresh shoots.
Garrya elliptica (silk-tassel bush): - When grown as a bush it needs little pruning, other than occasionally cutting out a few shoots so that it retains an attractive shape. If grown as a wall shrub, cut back long, econary shoots in spring.
Information on watering grass can be found at the Plants And Flowers site.
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